Everything You Should Know About Squirreltail Barley

Introduction and Overview

Squirreltail barley (Hordeum jubatum) is a unique, cool-season native bunchgrass originating from the western United States and Canada. Unlike traditional creeping lawn grasses, it grows in distinct upright clumps and is famous for its striking, bristly seedheads that resemble a squirrel’s tail. Homeowners and turf managers choose this species primarily for its exceptional drought tolerance and low maintenance requirements. While it is rarely used for high-traffic sports fields or manicured suburban lawns, it excels in specific landscape applications. It is highly valued for native plantings, roadside revegetation, erosion control, and low-water ornamental landscapes. If you want a natural, eco-friendly ground cover that supports local wildlife, this native grass is an outstanding choice.

Quick Facts

Attribute Detail
Scientific Name Hordeum jubatum
Climate Type Cool-season
USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9
Sunlight Needs Full sun to partial shade
Traffic Tolerance Low
Growth Habit Bunch
Maintenance Level Low
Estimated Annual Cost per 1,000 sq ft $40 – $80

How to Identify Squirreltail Barley

Identifying this grass is relatively easy once you know its distinct visual and tactile characteristics. The leaf color is typically a muted blue-green to grayish-green, which helps it blend into natural, arid landscapes. The blade width is quite narrow, measuring between 1 and 4 millimeters, and the tip shape comes to a sharp, slightly rough point.At the base of the leaf, you will find a ligule that forms a very short, membranous ring around the stem. The auricles are present and clearly clasp the stem, which is a key identifying feature for barley species. Its growth habit is a classic upright bunchgrass, forming tidy tufts rather than a dense, spreading carpet. The most unmistakable feature is the seedhead. It produces a dense, cylindrical spike measuring 2 to 4 inches long. This spike is covered in long, stiff, and bristly awns that give the plant its common name and create a highly textured, ornamental look.

Pros and Cons of Squirreltail Barley

Advantages

  • Exceptional Drought Tolerance: It survives prolonged dry spells with minimal supplemental watering once established.
  • Low Fertility Needs: It thrives in poor, native soils without the need for heavy synthetic fertilizers.
  • Wildlife Value: The seeds provide excellent forage for native birds and small mammals.
  • Erosion Control: The deep, fibrous root system holds soil securely on slopes and disturbed areas.
  • Ornamental Appeal: The unique, bristly seedheads add striking visual interest to naturalized landscapes.

Drawbacks

  • Low Traffic Tolerance: It cannot withstand heavy foot traffic or frequent use by pets.
  • Bristly Seedheads: The sharp awns can be a nuisance in high-activity areas and can tangle in pet fur.
  • Short-Lived Perennial: It often behaves like a biennial and requires periodic reseeding to maintain density.
  • Not a Traditional Lawn: It lacks the dense, carpet-like uniformity expected of conventional turfgrasses.

Mowing and Trimming Guidelines

Ideal Mowing Height

If you choose to mow your squirreltail barley, the ideal mowing height is between 3 and 4 inches. Always follow the one-third rule, which dictates that you should never cut more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing session. In many native landscape designs, however, the grass is intentionally left unmowed to showcase its decorative seedheads.

Mowing Frequency

During the peak growth periods in spring and early summer, you should mow every 10 to 14 days if you are maintaining a uniform height. Once the plant enters its dormant or semi-dormant phase in late summer and fall, mowing frequency drops significantly. You will likely only need to mow once a month, or not at all, during these cooler periods.

Best Mower Type

A rotary mower is the best choice for this species. Reel mowers often struggle to cleanly cut the tall, stiff, and fibrous seedheads, which can lead to tearing and an uneven appearance. A sharp rotary blade will cleanly slice through the tough stems without pulling the bunchgrass clumps out of the soil.

Trimmer and Edger Recommendations

When using a string trimmer for edging, use a 0.095-inch or 0.105-inch string line. Thicker lines are necessary because the tough, fibrous stems and bristly awns of squirreltail barley can easily snap thinner strings. A heavier line ensures a clean cut and prevents the trimmer from bogging down in dense native clumps.

Watering Schedule and Moisture Management

Establishment vs Established Watering

During the establishment phase, you must keep the top 1 inch of soil consistently moist for the first 3 to 4 weeks. Once the grass is established, its deep root system allows it to survive on natural rainfall in most regions. Supplemental watering is only required during extreme, prolonged summer droughts.

Frequency and Duration

For established lawns in peak summer, apply 0.5 to 1 inch of water per week. If you are using standard pop-up sprinklers with a flow rate of 2 to 3 gallons per minute, run each zone for about 15 to 20 minutes per cycle. It is always best to water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth.

Best Time of Day

The best time of day to water is early morning, specifically between 4:00 AM and 8:00 AM. Watering at this time allows the moisture to soak into the soil before the heat of the sun causes rapid evaporation. It also ensures the grass blades dry quickly, which prevents fungal diseases.

Drought Response and Signs of Underwatering

Even drought-tolerant grasses will show stress if they go without water for too long. Watch for these visual cues to know when your lawn needs a drink:

  • Footprinting: The grass blades do not spring back after you walk on them.
  • Bluish tint: The foliage takes on a dull, bluish-gray or silvery appearance.
  • Wilting: The leaves begin to fold inward or curl along their length to conserve moisture.

Fertilization and Soil Health

Soil pH Range

Squirreltail barley is highly adaptable and thrives in a soil pH range of 6.0 to 8.0. It is notably tolerant of alkaline soils, making it an excellent choice for regions with naturally sweet or chalky ground where other grasses might struggle.

Recommended NPK Ratios and Product Types

This native grass requires very little nitrogen, so use a balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer with an NPK ratio like 10-10-10 or 16-4-8. If the grass looks pale, a liquid iron application can green it up without forcing excessive, weak top growth. Organic options like top-dressed compost are highly recommended over heavy synthetic applications.

Annual Fertilizing Schedule

Apply your primary fertilizer in early spring (March or April) just as the grass breaks dormancy. A second, very light application can be made in early fall (September) to help the plant store energy for the winter. Avoid fertilizing in the heat of summer, as this can stress the plant and encourage weed growth.

Aeration and Dethatching

Because it is a bunchgrass, squirreltail barley does not build thatch like creeping grasses do. You should core aerate every 2 to 3 years if the soil becomes heavily compacted, using a standard plug aerator. Power raking or dethatching is almost never necessary and can actually damage the delicate crown of the bunchgrass clumps.

Weed Control for Squirreltail Barley

Common Weeds

Because this grass grows in open clumps, it can be vulnerable to weed invasion. The top 5 weeds that commonly invade these areas include:

  • Cheatgrass: A competitive winter annual that steals early spring moisture.
  • Canada thistle: A perennial weed with deep roots that thrives in disturbed native areas.
  • Field bindweed: A creeping vine that can smother low-growing bunchgrass clumps.
  • Dandelion: A broadleaf weed that easily establishes in thin spots.
  • Knapweed: An aggressive, drought-tolerant invasive that competes for water.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Apply pre-emergent herbicides when the soil temperature reaches 55°F in early spring. Effective active ingredients include Prodiamine, Dithiopyr, and Pendimethalin. These create a chemical barrier in the soil that prevents weed seeds like cheatgrass from germinating.

Post-Emergent Herbicides Safe for Squirreltail Barley

For existing broadleaf weeds, selective post-emergent herbicides containing 2,4-D, Dicamba, or Mecoprop are generally safe. Warning: Avoid herbicides containing metsulfuron or certain sulfonylureas, as these can cause severe injury or death to barley species. Always read the label to ensure the product is safe for use around native bunchgrasses.

Common Pests and Diseases

Top Pests

While generally resilient, a few insects can cause damage to your grass:

  • Grasshoppers: Chew irregular holes in the leaves; treat with bifenthrin or introduce beneficial nematodes.
  • Billbugs: Larvae chew inside the stems, causing sudden brown patches; use chlorantraniliprole as a preventative.
  • Armyworms: Defoliate large areas rapidly; treat with targeted Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or synthetic insecticides.

Top Diseases

Fungal issues are rare but can occur during prolonged wet, humid weather:

  • Stripe smut: Causes yellowish stripes on leaves; use seed treated with fungicides before planting.
  • Leaf rust: Appears as orange, powdery pustules on blades; apply Propiconazole or Azoxystrobin.
  • Snow mold: Forms gray or pink crusts under spring snowmelt; improve drainage and avoid late-fall nitrogen.

Seeding, Overseeding, and Renovation

Best Time to Seed

The best time to seed is in early spring or late fall when temperatures are moderate. The ideal soil temperature range for germination is between 50°F and 65°F. Avoid planting in the heat of summer or the freezing depths of winter.

Seeding Rates

For a new lawn or native planting, use a seeding rate of 5 to 8 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you are overseeding to thicken an existing stand, reduce the rate to 3 to 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Always use a calibrated broadcast spreader for even distribution.

Overseeding Process

  1. Mow low: Cut the existing grass down to 2 inches to expose the soil.
  2. Aerate: Run a core aerator over the area to create seed-to-soil contact.
  3. Spread seed: Apply the seed evenly using a broadcast spreader.
  4. Lightly rake: Drag a leaf rake lightly over the area to cover the seed slightly.
  5. Water: Keep the top inch of soil moist until the seeds sprout.

Germination Time

Under optimal moisture and temperature conditions, you will see germination in 14 to 21 days. Keep the soil consistently damp during this window to ensure the delicate seedlings do not dry out and die.

Maintenance Cost Breakdown for Squirreltail Barley

Initial Establishment Costs (First Year)

Starting a new native grass area requires some upfront investment, though it is generally cheaper than traditional sod lawns. Seed cost ranges from $30 to $50 per pound, totaling $150 to $250 for a 1,000 sq ft area. Sod is rarely available for this species, but if sourced, expect to pay $1.50 to $2.50 per sq ft installed. Plugs cost about $40 to $60 per tray, requiring 4 to 6 trays per 1,000 sq ft. A soil test kit or professional service costs $15 to $25. Lime or sulfur amendments run $20 to $40, while a starter fertilizer costs $30 to $50. Tilling and grading costs $150 to $300 for DIY equipment rental, or $500 to $1,000 for professional service. An equipment starter kit including a push mower ($250-$400), self-propelled mower ($400-$700), string trimmer ($80-$150), broadcast spreader ($40-$80), and basic sprinkler setup ($30-$60) will set you back $400 to $1,290 total.

Annual Recurring Costs

Expense DIY Cost / year Professional / year Notes
Fertilizer $30 – $50 $120 – $180 Low nitrogen requirements keep costs down.
Pre-emergent Herbicide $25 – $40 $70 – $100 Applied once in early spring.
Post-emergent Herbicide $20 – $35 $50 – $80 Spot treatments for broadleaf weeds.
Insecticides $15 – $30 $40 – $70 Only needed if pest thresholds are met.
Fungicides $20 – $35 $50 – $80 Rarely needed unless weather is very wet.
Water $100 – $180 $100 – $180 Highly drought tolerant, saving money.
Overseeding $30 – $50 $100 – $150 Needed every few years to maintain density.
Aeration and Dethatching $0 – $80 $80 – $120 Aerate every 2-3 years; dethatching rarely needed.
Mower Maintenance $40 – $60 $80 – $120 Blade sharpening and annual tune-ups.
Totals $280 – $560 $790 – $1,080 DIY saves roughly 60% annually.

Water Cost Estimate

Squirreltail barley requires about 600 to 1,000 gallons per 1,000 square feet per week during peak summer heat. At a baseline municipal rate of $6 per 1,000 gallons, your weekly water cost is roughly $3.60 to $6.00, leading to a monthly cost estimate of $14.40 to $24.00. Because it is highly drought-tolerant, you can expect drought-tolerant savings of 30% to 40% compared to watering traditional cool-season turfgrasses.

Equipment Costs and Lifespan

  • Mower: A standard rotary mower is recommended; purchase range is $300 to $600, with an expected lifespan of 8 to 10 years.
  • Trimmer/Edger: A gas or heavy-duty electric string trimmer costs $100 to $200, lasting 5 to 7 years.
  • Spreader: A reliable broadcast spreader costs $50 to $100 and can last 10+ years with proper cleaning.
  • Aerator: A plug aerator rental costs $75 to $100 per day, while purchasing a tow-behind model costs $200 to $400 (professional ride-on models are $1,500+).

Professional Lawn Care Service Costs

If you prefer to hire out the work, here are the concrete USD ranges for professional services. Mowing only costs $40 to $60 per visit, totaling $160 to $240 per month during the growing season. A comprehensive fertilization and weed control program runs $300 to $500 per year. Full-service lawn care, which includes mowing, edging, blowing, and basic maintenance, costs $150 to $250 per month or $1,800 to $3,000 per year. For specific aeration tasks, expect to pay $80 to $120 per visit. Dethatching is rarely needed but would cost $80 to $120 per visit if required. Finally, professional overseeding service costs $100 to $150 per 1,000 square feet, including seed and light topdressing.

Money-Saving Tips

  1. Leave grass clippings: Mulching clippings returns free nitrogen and organic matter directly to the soil.
  2. Mow at the highest setting: Keeping the grass at 4 inches shades the soil, reducing water evaporation and weed germination.
  3. Water deeply and infrequently: Train the roots to grow deep by watering only when the grass shows slight signs of drought stress.
  4. Test your soil: A $20 soil test prevents you from wasting money on unnecessary fertilizers or pH amendments.
  5. Spot treat weeds: Spray individual weeds rather than blanket-applying herbicides across the entire lawn.
  6. Sharpen mower blades regularly: A sharp blade cuts cleanly, reducing plant stress and lowering the risk of disease.
  7. Use organic compost: Top-dressing with cheap, bulk compost improves soil health far better than expensive synthetic fertilizers.
  8. Aerate manually: For small areas, use a manual core aerator or aeration sandals instead of renting heavy gas-powered equipment.

Return on Investment

Investing in a well-maintained native grass landscape can increase your property value by 3% to 5% due to enhanced curb appeal. Buyers increasingly appreciate low-water, eco-friendly yards that require less chemical maintenance. While squirreltail barley is a short-lived perennial, a properly managed stand can provide longevity of 5 to 10 years before requiring a major, full-scale renovation or complete reseed.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Spring

  • March to April (Soil temp 50°F): Apply pre-emergent herbicide to stop cheatgrass.
  • April to May: Apply a light dose of slow-release starter fertilizer.
  • May to June: Begin regular mowing at 3 to 4 inches as peak growth begins.

Summer

  • June to August: Water deeply only when footprinting or bluish tint appears.
  • July to August: Monitor for grasshoppers and billbugs; treat if damage is visible.
  • August: Reduce mowing frequency as the grass slows down in the heat.

Fall

  • September (Soil temp 60°F): Overseed thin areas and apply a light fall fertilizer.
  • October: Core aerate compacted areas to improve water penetration.
  • November: Give the lawn a final, deep watering before the ground freezes.

Winter

  • December to February: The grass is fully dormant; no mowing or watering is needed.
  • January: Clear fallen leaves and debris to prevent snow mold issues.
  • February: Service and sharpen mower blades in preparation for spring growth.

Squirreltail Barley vs Similar Grasses

Attribute Squirreltail Barley Bluebunch Wheatgrass Crested Wheatgrass
Shade Tolerance Low to Medium Low Low
Drought Tolerance High Very High Very High
Maintenance Level Low Low Low
Establishment Cost $150 – $250 / 1k sq ft $120 – $200 / 1k sq ft $100 – $180 / 1k sq ft
Water Needs 0.5 – 1 inch / week 0.25 – 0.5 inch / week 0.5 – 1 inch / week
Fertilizer Needs Low Very Low Low to Medium
Best Use Ornamental, erosion control Reclamation, wildlife habitat Pasture, low-maintenance turf

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Squirreltail Barley come back every year?

Squirreltail barley is technically a short-lived perennial, meaning it often behaves more like a biennial in many landscapes. While the original plant may die after one or two growing seasons, it readily drops seed to replenish the area. You will see it come back every year, but you may need to occasionally overseed to maintain a thick, uniform stand.

Why is my Squirreltail Barley turning yellow or brown?

Yellowing or browning usually points to environmental stress or cultural issues. Drought stress causes the leaves to fold and turn a bluish-brown, while overwatering can lead to root rot and yellowing. Additionally, a lack of nitrogen or fungal diseases like leaf rust can cause yellow spots, so check your watering habits and soil fertility first.

Can Squirreltail Barley grow in shade?

This native bunchgrass thrives best in full sun, requiring at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. It can tolerate light partial shade, especially in hotter southern climates where afternoon shade is beneficial. However, it will struggle, thin out, and fail to produce its signature seedheads if planted in deep or heavy shade.

How fast does Squirreltail Barley spread?

Unlike creeping grasses that spread via underground rhizomes or above-ground stolons, squirreltail barley is a strict bunchgrass. This means it grows in distinct, upright clumps and does not spread laterally to fill in bare spots on its own. It only spreads by dropping seeds, so you must manually overseed to increase its coverage area.

Is Squirreltail Barley pet and dog friendly?

The grass itself is completely non-toxic and safe for pets to walk on or occasionally nibble. However, the mature seedheads feature long, stiff, and bristly awns that can easily become tangled in fur. If you have dogs, it is best to mow the grass before these bristly seedheads fully develop to prevent painful matting or ear injuries.

How much does it cost to maintain a Squirreltail Barley lawn?

Maintaining a squirreltail barley lawn is highly affordable compared to traditional turfgrasses. For a standard DIY approach, expect to spend between $40 and $80 per 1,000 square feet annually on basic fertilizer, weed control, and water. If you hire a professional lawn care service for full maintenance, costs typically range from $150 to $250 per month.

Is Squirreltail Barley more expensive to maintain than other common grasses?

No, it is actually much cheaper to maintain than high-input traditional lawns like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. Because it is a native, drought-tolerant species, it requires significantly less water, fertilizer, and pest control. Its overall annual upkeep costs are very similar to other low-maintenance native grasses like blue grama or buffalograss.

Conclusion

Creating a beautiful landscape with squirreltail barley relies on the principle that consistency beats intensity. By following the seasonal care calendar and providing just the right amount of water and attention, you can enjoy a thriving, eco-friendly native grass area for years to come. If you encounter persistent pest or disease problems that you cannot diagnose using this guide, we highly recommend contacting a local lawn care professional for an in-person assessment.

Similar Posts